Maytag Washers
A quality product through and through. Maytag's dependable care design, helical drive, has stood the test of time. Since roughly 1955,
this design underwent very few changes with the notable exception of the transmission. However, with the 1990's, Maytag
engineered several new designs, incorporating existing technologies from Norge, Amana and introducing it's front load Neptune washer.
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| Dependable Care (Heavy Duty) two belt system |
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Washer Service Manual
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Here we go! Starting from the bottom up... The biggest thing are belts. Maytag's clutching system relies upon good belts and a
loose motor carrage. Belts can be purchased individually (211125 drive belt; 211124 pump belt) or in a set (12112425).
Remember that the pump belt needs to be loose. if it's not, the machine will cut off in mid spin. A bad belt will be cracked or broken. If it's burned,
there's a different problem - generally an overloaded machine or perhaps something stuck between the tubs, or a motor roller kit(205000) that needs replacing. and possibly a bad transmission(rare).
Turning to the pump(202203).. It may leak, or the impeller inside may strip out. Either way you'll have to change the entire pump... rebuild kits are not available.
You can't tighten the belt to make it pump out better. So take care when reinstalling a new pump to get it back in the same place the old one was in. If your Maytag won't pump the water out,
look for a pump where the shaft is siezed, a kinked drain hose, a belt that has fallen off(they tend to be very loose) or a sock or something that is
obstructing the drain hole out of the bottom of the tub.
Over to the Motor(201805 single speed 5 wires; 201807 two speed 6 wires). The motor sits on a floating carrage which allows it to clutch the machine slowly into spin.
The high failure part is the Motor roller kit(205000). If one of these is bad, the motor doesn't clutch and you have problems when the machine goes into spin. It may shutdown, cool off and start again only to shutdown, cool etc.
The other parts involved are the motor pulley(200816) and motor switch. If your motor doesn't run, it may be the motor or timer. If your not sure, you might want to call out a service tech.
The brake package (201190) is in the middle of the washer just above the big pulley (22211059). Generally if it goes bad, the machine makes a loud screeching sound at the end of spin.If you need to replace it, you'll need the brake tool (038315) and a big hammer.
The brake screws into the bottom of the damper assembly (203725) that floats above the base frame on damper pads (203956) that are lubricated and glued down. These damper pads are an extremely high wear item. If they lose thier
lubrication or get pushed out from underneath the damper, the machine will walk over the floor, or stop spinning because of an unbalanced load very easily.
There are two bearings in this area to talk about. The first is the Rotor Bearing (200835) which sits just above the big pulley down by the belts. This bearing actually releases the brake when going into spin. So if it fails, the machine
tends to be noisy when going into spin. The second bearing is the Radial Bearing (200720) which supports the weight of the spinning tubs. If it goes out the machine will sound like a freight train going down the tracks when spinning.
A couple of things... If you remove the big pulley down by the belts, when you put it back on, make sure the lug (211089) is pointing at a 9:00 orientation to the boss that sticks down from the pulley(looking from the bottom up). If you get this wrong the
machine will try to spin and agitate at the same time. And remember which way the bearing came off of the pulley. the beveled sides should match.
Moving on to the transmission. If the tranny is locked up in agitate, call a repairman. If there is a little oil underneath the machine... that's common. Clean it up and let it go. In tests, the tranny ran for a number of simulated years without oil.
If you're a real do it yourselfer, buy a service manual. The tranny goes up into the bottom of the outer tub through the tub bearing (204013). There are two pieces here, the bearing sleeve (211100) and the bearing. You can buy the sleeve separately from the bearing, but
when you buy the bearing kit, you get the sleeve. We recommend that you replace the kit. If this item fails, the machine may not spin, or may make a really loud whinning sound. The inner tub is attached to the top of the tranny and the agitator is either snapped down over a small
black o-ring (015494) or held in place with a screw at the base of the agitator. There is a single water seal kit (22204012) for both tubs. If water seems to be leaking from around the bearing, you'll need to replace the seal kit.
Transmissions and Agitators or specific to model. You can research them yourself or email us!
Moving up to the tubs. Older Maytag outer tub and tub tops are porcelain. Replacing the tub on an older machine is questionable... However, these machines were the best made and as of this writing, are being phased out. It might be worthwhile to keep them.
The metal tub top was changed in order to accomodate a new water injector system. So they have gone from the original injector kit (204660) to the newer style (206680). The way to tell the difference is in the tub connection. The original hose is shaped like a horseshoe and pushes right
into the top of the tub. The new style has a plastic connection and keys into the top of the tub. There is a very common water valve (205613) for these machines. The tub top is held on to lower tub by a big round band clamp (200846). Underneath the clamp is the tub top seal (211232).
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| Dependable Care w/ Plastic Tub top |
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Along about ten years ago, Maytag began the switch from a metal tub top to a plastic tub top. The new plastic top is composed of three items. First is the plastic tub top(22001299), next is the balance ring(22001142) that snaps into it and finally the seal(22001007).
With this change, came the redesign of the water injector system(22001304) and a new water valve(22001074).
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